かなり静かな裏銀座（前半）

最近下山後に100％フルーツジュースを飲むのがマイブームなRINAです。

それもできればファミマとか成城石井に売っている、ちょっと高級な100％が嬉しい。

ちなみに普段はジュースって全く飲みません。

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天気の良い平日が連続してお休みだったので、まだ行ったことのなかった裏銀座を縦走してきました。

高瀬ダム～氷河公園経由～上高地4日間。

本当は徳本峠に抜けたらロマンチックだな～と勝手に思っていたのですが、無理でした(^-^;

一人旅は人生について向き合える良い時間です。

私は1人で走っている時と登山している時がその時間なんです。

day1

ちょうどJUNは扇沢から立山へ行くというので、七倉山荘まで送迎してもらいました。

そこからタクシーで高瀬ダムへ。

高瀬ダムで受ける風でテンションが上がりました。

これは寒いぞと・・・

不動沢吊橋を渡ると、そこには正体不明の高さ10cmほどの木がたくさん。

これ、何でしょう？

燕岳からよく眺めていた記憶の高瀬ダム。

手作り感満載の橋を渡って

北アルプス三大急登の1つであるブナ立尾根から始まります。

今回はテント装備を背負っての縦走ですが、三大急登だからできるだけ軽量化しようとパッキングしていたら、48Lに収まってしまった！

食料6回分と、テントで暇を持て余した時用にJUNお勧めの読書本まで入っている。

にも関わらず、とても軽い！

過去のテント泊の中でダントツ軽いだろう。体が軽いのか荷物が軽いのかはわからないけれど、とにかく順調すぎてブナ立尾根楽勝ムード。

最近気になる青い尻尾のトカゲちゃん。

これ、ニホントカゲの幼体なんですね（成体は褐色）。またお洒落なメスもこのメタリックな感じを残すそう。

トカゲは天敵から身を守る為に自ら尻尾を切り離し、また再生するという話は有名ですが、切り離した尻尾はしばらくの間動いているそうです（天敵に差し出し、本体は逃げる）。

その後しばらくすると尻尾を落とした場所に戻り、残っていれば自分で食べて栄養分にするとか。よって綺麗だからと拾って持って帰ってはいけません。

また再生した尻尾は、元の色とは違っていたり短くなってしまうようです。

何はともあれ、大の苦手だった爬虫類や両生類の写真を撮れるようになった自分にビックリ！

さて、

私はナガイリナ。

これはミヤマコウゾリナ。

カンチコウゾリナはよく見かけるのですが、ミヤマコウゾリナは少ないです。

ブナ立尾根では1人もすれ違わず登り切る。

ニセエボシを過ぎると烏帽子岳がドーンと現れる。

あの真ん中の岩場を登るのかな～楽しそう！なんてよく見たら、登山道は右手から巻いているのが見えます。

調子に乗って走ってぐんぐん進んでいたら、振り返るとなぜか烏帽子岳が見える。

やってしまった。行き過ぎです。

あ～もったいない！

烏帽子岳ピーク。

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烏帽子小屋付近にキャンプ場がありますが、今年はコロナでキャンプ場は使用不可となっています。山小屋よりコロナとは無縁な気もするが。

それで1日目はもう少し足を延ばして野口五郎小屋までの行程としました。野口さんとこはキャンプ場がないので小屋泊となります。

その道のりは、お花畑が素晴らしい。

イワギキョウが群生していてシャッターを切ってみた。

が、帰ってよくよく見てみたら枯れてるのが多いのね(^-^;

高山植物の女王様と言われるコマクサ。

特に興味はないのだが、砂礫にみるコマクサが多い中こちらは岩の隙間から頑張っている様子が、やはりストイックな花だなと改めて思ふ。

さすがにチングルマの花は終わっていますが、綿毛に変化する過程が大好きです。

私はこの綿毛を「寝ぐせ」と呼んでいます（笑）。

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お花畑が落ち着くと、お次は雷鳥の出番です！

とても良いお天気で視界良好なのに、目立ちたがり屋な雷鳥親子。

お母さんは岩に上って、天敵がいないか見渡しているのかな？

完全に私のことは無関心です（笑）。

とてもかわいい雷鳥親子を動画でどうぞ。

子供は3羽いましたが（一緒に産まれたであろう他の約3羽はきっと天国へ）、動画には1羽しか映っていないです。

同じ雷鳥親子。

ちなみにお父さんはこの時期どこかへ遊びに行っていて、育児放棄しています。

まあ夫婦で育児について喧嘩なく、完全に母親に任せているので上手くいっているのでしょう！

本日の宿が見えてきました。

青いドラム缶が一際目立ちます。

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2900ｍ近くとあって、寒い。

ダウンJKは持ってきているが、中間着をもっと持ってくれば良かったと後悔。この後のテント泊で耐えられるのだろうか・・・？とても不安になる。

小屋の中でストーブがついていて有り難かったけれど、ダウンも着ていてちょうど良い、か寒い。

内部と食堂。

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夕食は2人前ぐらいのボリュームのカレーライス！

よく見ると、♥の目玉焼きなのだぁ。

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お客さんは4人。

この標高で残飯を出すだけでも申し訳ないし、頑張って食べ過ぎました。苦しすぎました(^-^;

部屋は有り難いことに1人で使えたので、ぐっすりです(^^)/

野口五郎小屋でお会いした北アルプス山岳パトロール隊の若手A君は、次の日槍ヶ岳山荘まで行き、戻ってくる道でまたお会いしたのでこれも何かのご縁と思い、色々立ち話してしまいました。登山道整備（山小屋スタッフの方）も本当にありがとうございます。日本一のアルプスはこうしてたくさんの方のお力で維持されています。

day2

あまりにも寝心地が良すぎて（自分の新品の寝袋のお陰もあって）、起きたくなかったけれど起きました（笑）。

小屋から程なくして野口五郎岳ピークです。

ここで改めて、明日予定していた南岳でテント泊は寒すぎて無理！と確信する（笑）。もっと下りようと。

幸いにも今回通過するキャンプ指定地では、どこも予約が必要ない（平日）ので安心です。

ここは展望台かよ！というような稜線歩きを軽快にして、水晶小屋に荷物をデポして水晶岳を往復する。

1人もいない。100名山とは思えない・・・この静けさ。

JUNがいる立山・剱もバッチリ。

360°ビューを動画でどうぞ。

槍から槍までです！

水晶岳から水晶小屋付近に戻ってくると、水晶小屋の女性スタッフに「リナさんですか」と外で声をかけられました。

まさか初めて訪れる水晶小屋に私を知っている人がいるなんて想像もしていなかった。

どこまで有名人なんだよ？！

と、うぬぼれるほどのこともなく、毎年バックカントリーでお世話になっている八甲田山荘で働いていたスタッフの方でした。

お話ししたことはありませんでしたが、走っている姿とスパイラルパーマで普通の人ではないと判断されたらしい（笑）。

素晴らしい展望はまだまだ続きます。

ワリモ岳を過ぎて、鷲羽岳と眼下に見える鷲羽池。

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三俣山荘が模型みたい！

三俣山荘では楽しみにしていたスイーツセットを。

オーダーが入ってから挽く豆でネルドリップしてくれますが、1杯700円は山の中でも最高級の部類です。（以前はサイフォンだったような？）

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スイーツは芋ようかん的なものとかりんとうでした。

コーヒー美味しかったです。

エネルギーを補給したところで、ここからは何度も歩いている道。

道標が白く眩しくなっていました！

上部はコバイケイソウが黄葉していました。

これはミヤマオトコヨモギかな。

花が似ているタカネヨモギはよく見ますが、葉っぱが違います。

ショートカットしても良かったのですが、一応三俣蓮華岳と双六岳も踏んで電波の確認をしつつ、本日のキャンプ場双六へ。

三俣山荘（日中）も双六小屋も電波が入りません。

実は昨日いきなりモバイルバッテリーが死んでしまったので三俣山荘で充電しようとしたら、昼間は発電機を回していないのでできませんでした。

双六小屋でも（テント泊の人へ）充電はできないといわれ、もう電源を切っておくしか手段はないのです。

それでここからは写真はできるだけ控え（カメラは持ってきていない）、紙の地図を使うこと、そして体が冷えないようにテントからはトイレ以外一歩も出ず。

人より寒がりなので、もう1枚防寒着は必要だったなぁ。

本日最後の1枚。

夜、暗闇の中離れたトイレから戻ってくると、確かにここにあったはずの自分のMSRのグリーンのテントがない。

しばらく不審者の様に歩き回って、なんでオレンジ色のテントしかないのだろうか？？？と困り果てていた時、自分のヘッドライトの明かりを赤色にしていたことに気付く。

そうだ、だからテントはみんなオレンジ色に見えるんだ！

星が満点でした。

後半につづく。

RINA